Work continues

Although the Leave for Change is over, I am not finished working with my counterpart in Nepal. We're still working together on the websites which are now and will for sometime continue to develop and grow. The IDS Nepal site is http://www.idsnepal.org/ and BGRCNN is at http://www.bgrcnn.net/

BGRCNN is a new development and in it's infancy so content is still being created and added to the site. The bio-briquettes site is having it's content updated to include more of the year-round production information, and will be ready soon.

Some images are available online: http://www.flickr.com/photos/idsnepal/sets/ and here's a great video report from CNN: http://www.youtube.com/IDSNepal#p/c/70DDB94E7FD80CEC

Here's some snapshots of the sites:

It's over...but not forgotten

Ah, well...sorry. I've recently been informed that I've neglected my blog. And wow, have I ever. Here's why. My last week in Kathmandu was a whirlwind. I had a lot of work to do, lots to see and lots to buy. It was my last week to take advantage of my surroundings. After a couple of weeks I was finally becoming accustomed to my surroundings. I was getting lost less often, had developed a sense of direction somewhat, knew what I needed to get, how to get it and where to go. Yay! I met lots of great people who wanted to go out and we went all over the city, usually 4 to 5 places a night. I met and learned from many Nepalese people who were more than willing to share their thoughts, be honest and tell me all about things I will never fully understand as a badeshi. They expect that I will be back again...I wish I could be as confident.

I've learned a lot from the Nepalese in Kathmandu. Most importantly I learned that we have to listen, not act first. What are the NGO's doing for Nepal? What can westerners offer Nepal? In their eyes, we're not offering much and I sense a bit of frustration when they talk about it. Who's listening to Nepal? What do they really need from us? Money? Support? A voice? An audience? What?

I had a fantastic time in Kathmandu and wouldn't trade it for the world. It was an insanely fast 3 weeks and by rights, should have been 4 weeks with a 3 day break in the middle to travel around a bit. Did they need to send me half way around the world to build websites and do a workshop? Probably not but I'm glad they did. I know more about myself (traveling alone is a must folks, it's the only way to learn), I have been humbled and accepted criticism (never easy), I've dealt with challenges and succeeded. How could I possibly learn all that from a book? The impact is HUGE and trips like these do change who you are. Let me restate this important fact: you have to travel alone. It's not scary or intimidating...it's amazing to find out what you're made of, what your limits are and how you can change yourself.

I've added a wrap up video. And here's another recommended read - suggested by a Nepalese friend. I've been told it's better to read this book after having been to Nepal: Amma in America.

Tihar continues...

Another fun day of Tihar. Firecrackers everywhere, music, dancing, lights, people. The streets were packed last night for Tihar. The women dress up in beautiful clothes, everyone is happy and greeting each other with "Namaste, Happy Tihar". For the record, it's year 1130 for the Newari and 2066 for the Nepalese. I was in the bhat-bhetini market yesterday morning and was looking at buying some cheese. The expiry date said 2066 and I thought 'what the..." but now I get it.

We walked all over the place last night after a yummy Indian meal at the Third Eye in Thamel, tandoori chicken, palak paneer, veggies, naan, rice, cucumber raita. We wandered the streets from Thamel to New Road through the Andra Chowk. Every store paints a path to their store on the road and decorates it with flowers, candles and spices, to entice the goddess of wealth, Laxmi.

Packs of boys were running around everywhere lighting firecrackers. One pack threw a firecracker right at my feet - make the badeshi jump. They were funny -I took a photo of them. It was really noisy all night, the lights were beautiful. This is a very impressive festival. Go Nepal! I made a short video of the night, watch it here.

Tihar Begins!

Last night was the first of four festival days. Tihar starts with the worship of crows, then dogs, then cows, then brothers and sisters. It's Christmas and Halloween all rolled into one. There's Christmas lights everywhere. Last night I was standing under a huge strand of lights that was playing 'Rudolf the Red-Nose Reindeer'. Had a feast at Buzz with a great buffet of Dal Baat that included a rare treat here, deer. No, there is no coincidence between the deer and Rudolf...although that is funny.

I was sitting with a few folks, two from Kathmandu, Pikash owns Buzz, another (forget his name) owns a popular club downtown called the Funky Buddha and the third, Shirley is a Danish kids clothing store owner who's been traveling back and forth to Kathmandu for 3 years. All very nice folks. After the buffet the gambling started and they mean business here. It starts off with a board game like roulette and then it progresses to cards and then shells. They gamble a fortune here. Some were betting their houses, some were betting their wives. No Joke, seriously. I've been invited to Shirley's house on Sunday for more...you guessed it...gambling and food.

Tonight it's off to Thamel again and the Monkey Temple. Around 5ish we're heading down to New Road to see the big show of lights and decorations on the jewelery shops, I guess the shop owners spend a fortune decorating and competing with each other. A shop owner, Rajish, invited us down to celebrate. Rajish is a young guy who also runs a children's music camp. he takes kids from the orphanages and 5 street kids (he watches a number of the street kids for a few months before selecting 5) to a rural area to camp for a week, the kids learn how to play guitar, sing, do art, etc. If any of the street kids behave well and want more (most run away to go sniff glue, it's sad and I've seen it) he takes them to the orphanage to be cared for. Nice eh? I've been invited to go visit the camp but it starts on Wednesday and I have to present on Thursday morning so I can't make it. it's too far outside the city. Bummer. I'd like to go :-( (Three weeks is toooooooo short!)

Today is the day to worship the goddess of wealth so all the shops are open to worship, not to sell. I'll take loads of pictures and post them. I also had a great chat with an older man from Kathmandu, Rakesh, who talked about all sorts of things he's noticed and questions about the western world; he's traveled all over the world and has seen a lot but his heart is in Kathmandu. He is a landscape designer and runs a Kindergarten. The people you meet here...blows my mind. Many people here have traveled, despite poverty and the currency, they find a way to get out and see the world. They have no choice.

Later on we all went to a roof top to tell jokes (that's what they do here, sit around a tell jokes forever, lots of monkey, elephant and tiger jokes, some good, some very bad) Oh, and I saw Orion last night in the sky...reminded me of home.

I've added some video here.

Midway

Well, I''m halfway through the trip. I've got three websites built, a training session scheduled with all the CECI partners (there's tons of them) and a meeting today with the IDS owners. I've been working with a new employee at IDS, showing him the ropes and he's really keen. Turns out he's the owner's son....oh Nepal, that is so your way.

Good news, with some training he will try to manage the sites from here but I will continue to help him out. Bad news, they have had no luck tracking down the previous webmaster and he has the info to access the server. So, still no server. The sites look great on my computer but without a server, it's not going to do much good.

And there's more bad news. A strange rash broke out on my face yesterday morning and is still here today; an itchy, red, bumpy rash with white bumps preceded by fever, coughing, sneezing, the works. I have no idea what I caught but I don't like it. Ah well, it looks gross but I'll manage - hopefully will clear up before Tihar.

So, for Tihar, Friday night we're going down to Thamel them off to Durbar Square for to see the lights and stuff - will bring camera. And on the third day of the festival, been invited to Rajendra's house for the 'sisters' day when they put tikas on the brothers and eat a lot. The festival is four days which means the office is closed for four days...so much for getting work done.

Still, having a good time. You can't beat the food here, it's been around 30 degrees almost everyday, these folks love the night life and will do anything for you. What's a little rash?

Ugh, bummed...sniff, sniff

I have a cold, I'm working all the time. I haven't left the compound yet today. Well, that's not true I was out for an hour this morning. I'm working out of the CECI office because of the internet issue. It's much better here. Still, only a week and a half to do three websites and a training session...nutty. I can't believe I have a cold! It's about 30 degrees here. Just my luck. I'm bummed and tired. There's a crazy little dog that starts barking every morning at 6 AM and barks endlessly...then the rooster pipes in...followed by cars honking and what sounds like big iron doors being smashed together. I need sleep. What is with that dog and 6 AM?

Here's a weird thing, late last night I was walking back to the house with Tessa and there was a group of men in the Chowk around a campfire made of garbage, and there was a couple of dudes digging a massive hole. It was dark and they were digging a big hole in the intersection...creepy.

Still no updates on the pending revolution the Maoists said will begin after Tihar...which would make it Sunday or Monday.

Durbar Square, Thamel and New Road

Sitting in the dark (load sharing) after another good day. Started late after a long sleep, went for lunch with a few folks at OR2K and then off browsing through Thamel, New Road and Durbar Square. The place was packed! Saw a lot of cool stuff including the Kumari Nevi's house in Durbar Square. The Kumari Nevi is a living goddess, a young girl(as young as 4) who is chosen from the Newari caste and, until she has her period, is worshiped as a goddess. She's not allowed to touch the ground and only leaves her home 6 times a year (carried on a chariot). After she has her first period, she becomes an ordinary person and joins the real world again. I guess these girls, spoiled and worshiped until puberty, come out really messed up and cannot marry because they carry a curse. Still, their family is well taken care of and she gets a good dowry at retirement.

New Road is an area full of fabric shops, gold bangles, and everything you can imagine from buddha statues to knock off rolex watches. It's an insanely busy spot. Here's some shots of a holy cow, a Sadhu and the Kumari Bahal (her home in the square).








There's a novel written by a Kumari about her life that is probably worth reading: "From Goddess to Mortal" by Rashmilla Shakya. And of course, I've added new videos :-)