Namaste!
Friday, December 4, 2009
Work continues
Monday, October 26, 2009
It's over...but not forgotten
I've learned a lot from the Nepalese in Kathmandu. Most importantly I learned that we have to listen, not act first. What are the NGO's doing for Nepal? What can westerners offer Nepal? In their eyes, we're not offering much and I sense a bit of frustration when they talk about it. Who's listening to Nepal? What do they really need from us? Money? Support? A voice? An audience? What?
I had a fantastic time in Kathmandu and wouldn't trade it for the world. It was an insanely fast 3 weeks and by rights, should have been 4 weeks with a 3 day break in the middle to travel around a bit. Did they need to send me half way around the world to build websites and do a workshop? Probably not but I'm glad they did. I know more about myself (traveling alone is a must folks, it's the only way to learn), I have been humbled and accepted criticism (never easy), I've dealt with challenges and succeeded. How could I possibly learn all that from a book? The impact is HUGE and trips like these do change who you are. Let me restate this important fact: you have to travel alone. It's not scary or intimidating...it's amazing to find out what you're made of, what your limits are and how you can change yourself.
I've added a wrap up video. And here's another recommended read - suggested by a Nepalese friend. I've been told it's better to read this book after having been to Nepal: Amma in America.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Tihar continues...
We walked all over the place last night after a yummy Indian meal at the Third Eye in Thamel, tandoori chicken, palak paneer, veggies, naan, rice, cucumber raita. We wandered the streets from Thamel to New Road through the Andra Chowk. Every store paints a path to their store on the road and decorates it with flowers, candles and spices, to entice the goddess of wealth, Laxmi.
Packs of boys were running around everywhere lighting firecrackers. One pack threw a firecracker right at my feet - make the badeshi jump. They were funny -I took a photo of them. It was really noisy all night, the lights were beautiful. This is a very impressive festival. Go Nepal! I made a short video of the night, watch it here.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Tihar Begins!
I was sitting with a few folks, two from Kathmandu, Pikash owns Buzz, another (forget his name) owns a popular club downtown called the Funky Buddha and the third, Shirley is a Danish kids clothing store owner who's been traveling back and forth to Kathmandu for 3 years. All very nice folks. After the buffet the gambling started and they mean business here. It starts off with a board game like roulette and then it progresses to cards and then shells. They gamble a fortune here. Some were betting their houses, some were betting their wives. No Joke, seriously. I've been invited to Shirley's house on Sunday for more...you guessed it...gambling and food.
Tonight it's off to Thamel again and the Monkey Temple. Around 5ish we're heading down to New Road to see the big show of lights and decorations on the jewelery shops, I guess the shop owners spend a fortune decorating and competing with each other. A shop owner, Rajish, invited us down to celebrate. Rajish is a young guy who also runs a children's music camp. he takes kids from the orphanages and 5 street kids (he watches a number of the street kids for a few months before selecting 5) to a rural area to camp for a week, the kids learn how to play guitar, sing, do art, etc. If any of the street kids behave well and want more (most run away to go sniff glue, it's sad and I've seen it) he takes them to the orphanage to be cared for. Nice eh? I've been invited to go visit the camp but it starts on Wednesday and I have to present on Thursday morning so I can't make it. it's too far outside the city. Bummer. I'd like to go :-( (Three weeks is toooooooo short!)
Today is the day to worship the goddess of wealth so all the shops are open to worship, not to sell. I'll take loads of pictures and post them. I also had a great chat with an older man from Kathmandu, Rakesh, who talked about all sorts of things he's noticed and questions about the western world; he's traveled all over the world and has seen a lot but his heart is in Kathmandu. He is a landscape designer and runs a Kindergarten. The people you meet here...blows my mind. Many people here have traveled, despite poverty and the currency, they find a way to get out and see the world. They have no choice.
Later on we all went to a roof top to tell jokes (that's what they do here, sit around a tell jokes forever, lots of monkey, elephant and tiger jokes, some good, some very bad) Oh, and I saw Orion last night in the sky...reminded me of home.
I've added some video here.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Midway
Good news, with some training he will try to manage the sites from here but I will continue to help him out. Bad news, they have had no luck tracking down the previous webmaster and he has the info to access the server. So, still no server. The sites look great on my computer but without a server, it's not going to do much good.
And there's more bad news. A strange rash broke out on my face yesterday morning and is still here today; an itchy, red, bumpy rash with white bumps preceded by fever, coughing, sneezing, the works. I have no idea what I caught but I don't like it. Ah well, it looks gross but I'll manage - hopefully will clear up before Tihar.
So, for Tihar, Friday night we're going down to Thamel them off to Durbar Square for to see the lights and stuff - will bring camera. And on the third day of the festival, been invited to Rajendra's house for the 'sisters' day when they put tikas on the brothers and eat a lot. The festival is four days which means the office is closed for four days...so much for getting work done.
Still, having a good time. You can't beat the food here, it's been around 30 degrees almost everyday, these folks love the night life and will do anything for you. What's a little rash?
Monday, October 12, 2009
Ugh, bummed...sniff, sniff
Here's a weird thing, late last night I was walking back to the house with Tessa and there was a group of men in the Chowk around a campfire made of garbage, and there was a couple of dudes digging a massive hole. It was dark and they were digging a big hole in the intersection...creepy.
Still no updates on the pending revolution the Maoists said will begin after Tihar...which would make it Sunday or Monday.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Durbar Square, Thamel and New Road
New Road is an area full of fabric shops, gold bangles, and everything you can imagine from buddha statues to knock off rolex watches. It's an insanely busy spot. Here's some shots of a holy cow, a Sadhu and the Kumari Bahal (her home in the square).
There's a novel written by a Kumari about her life that is probably worth reading: "From Goddess to Mortal" by Rashmilla Shakya. And of course, I've added new videos :-)
Clubbing in Kathmandu!
At 12 we came back to the CECI house for a farewell/welcome celebration for el Nasser, Tessa, Naomi and myself. We received a Nepali greeting and then we each had to stand on a chair, sing a song, dance and make a short speech. gulp. I sang 'Farewell to Nova Scotia' and did a sort-of highland dance...out of my comfort zone...woooo. Then we had a feast, yum.
Afterwards I walked back to work and finding myself still without internet, came back to the CECI office to use their wireless. I'm talking 10-15 kbps folks. It's not easy making websites at that speed :-(
Then in the evening we went out to go to Jazzmandu at this incredibly beautiful oasis in the middle of the city (see my videos), and CLUBBING! Yay! It's all true what they say. The clubs appear out of no where, down dark back alleys behind locked metal doors, up two flights of stairs. And...they're packed! I met a lot of really nice people from Kathmandu and surrounding areas. All of whom said to get out of Kathmandu to Pokhara if I had time. These folks seem to be pretty well off in Nepal, some owned hotels, restaurants, etc. And all very young - the future leaders of Nepal I was told. We went out with this really nice guy who seems to have a lot of pull in Kathmandu. Doors magically opened for him everywhere we went. He owns a really nice restaurant here called Buzz. Actually, it was the first place I went to when I arrived.
Long story short, got home at 2 AM and we were locked out of the CECI house so Naomi climbed over the gate (a tricky maneuver, high gate, spikes on the top, big heavy metal doors). Then, once she got over, the guard appeared from the back of the compound. Security at it's best! I slept until 12. Today, I'm off a wandering...
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Long working day at IDS
The three sites are for IDS (Integrated Development Society Nepal), BGRCNN (Banaspati Gueetha Resource Centre Network Nepal) and Bio-Briquettes Company. IDS is an NGO committed to improving the quality of life of poor and underprivileged people in Nepal. BGRCNN is a network of producers and parties involved in bio-briquettes and the Bio-Briquettes Company is promoting and selling the product - a low cost alternative and sustainable energy source badly needed in rural areas. They take a destructive forest weed (Banmara), char it, mold it with clay and water and then burn it instead of burning wood or kerosene. it's cleaner, mitigates climate change, generates sustainable income in rural areas and supports gender equity through the involvement of women in the production and marketing of the briquettes. Win win all round.
I got lost today...like seriously lost. Every corner, house, path and wall looked the same. Well, there are no corners, there are no street names, no house numbers, and sometimes no lights. I was wandering around for a while trying to find something familiar. Fortunately, earlier in the day, I had noticed a narrow road that had white bricks on one wall and dark concrete on the other wall. I started singing 'ebony and ivory'. Well, I remembered that when I came across this "corner" again so I used it as my marker to find my way back. Genius! Lucky thing I'm so easily distracted...right? Tomorrow, I'll video the walk to IDS to show you that it's not easy getting around here - let alone dodge cars and motorcycles everywhere. If life isn't exciting, it's not worth living.
Oh yeah, I uploaded more videos here.
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Bouddhanath is the Tibetan area of Kathmandu and it is the most amazing feeling when you go in there. It actually feels calming to be there. The scent of burning incense and the sound of the chants and spinning prayer wheels is enchanting. I took some videos. My guide explained a lot about Buddhist symbolism.
Pashupatinath was an experience. Less calming, kind of disturbing. It's the massive Hindu temple in Nepal. There were about 4 or 5 funerals going on while I was there and I took some video of the funerals. And there were monkeys and holy men. I was hounded by sellers and warned not to look the monkey's in the eye - apparently that pisses them off.
Durbar Square in Patan is very cool and really old, medieval actually. It is going back in time…the architecture…the narrow stone paths. A lot of these buildings were built well before they had access to concrete. They used a mixture of ghee, black lentils and dirt to build the structures, a mixture much stronger than concrete. Go figure, a little butter, lentils and dirt...who knew?
The Royal Palace in Durbar was built in the 12th century and is the home to massive slaughter celebrations. Thousands of animals have been slaughtered over the years. Last week about 100 buffalo were killed (heads cut off in one slice) in the palace courtyard. I have some video explaining the slaughter. It's a huge pool of blood. There were tons of blood-stains and hanging entrails when I was there today, gory remnants of the celebration.
Only one courtyard in the temple is open to the public. A few years back, all three courtyards were open to the public but an American film crew came in to film and apparently they stole a lot of the statues and stuff, so the other two courtyards were closed off. Nice eh?
Then off to Lazimpath (sp?) Street for a little shopping after a potato curry and flat bread lunch… yummmmm
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Full day of learning
I had orientation this morning and afternoon with Rajendra and Geetika. CECI first, etiquette and then Uniterra background. All very interesting. Rajendra, who's been with CECI for 20 years covered the history of CECI from the beginning. It's been quite a journey for them. Uniterra is a product of a merge (shared interests) between WUSC and CECI and it too has had quite an evolution. Their hedgehog concept (sustainable forestry, dairy, micro finance) has been firmly hammered out for the next five years. Uniterra I evolved from an international volunteer program servicing projects with 2 year term volunteers to a focused program with short, medium and long term volunteer placements. This new plan, Uniterra II, launched this Spring. This is a short and 'not worthy' synopsis of a lot of information and history but I'll stop here.
I walked around a bit mid-day, got a phone card, had lunch at 'Trendy" which is a nice restaurant...except for the big dead bug in my meal, many legs, laying on his back, dead (gross). Fortunately I had already eaten most of the plate of briyani and rice. Or maybe not so fortunate...the jury is out on that one.
Later on in the afternoon I went to Thamel with Naomi, Tessa and Moose (nickname obviously). We took a crazy cab ride (I still can't get over the driving) to Thamel and went for dinner at this cute hippie restaurant. The food was good, everyone was Badeshi (foreigner) and the seats were really low, sitting on cushions, black lights, candles, cute and mellow man. Then we wandered around the shops a bit and had a look at some things I want to pick up such as the mandalas and colourful hangy-thingies and nice artwork, and clothes... I can't believe you can get tailor made jeans (saw them myself and they're nice) for $7. Isn't that wild? Oh yeah, my meal was 180 rupees and the drink (mint lemonade that tasted like a mojito) was 80 rupees so all together 260 rupees which is $3.50. Love it! It's cheap to eat and the portions are big. However, cars and real estate are crazy expensive, at least 3 times the price of housing in Vancouver.
I've uploaded videos of Thamel and the OR2K restaurant here. I have to mention the smell of Thamel. Imagine some spices and incense wafting around, a warm sweet smelling air, and listen to the sounds of honking and music. Kind of dreamy really despite all the commotion.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Here at Last!
I arrived around 8:30, had a ONE HOUR line up for a VISA which was nuts. I was picked up at the Airport by Rajendra and Pushpa (CECI Admin). We drove to the CECI office/passage house and the driving is truly insane. There are no rules other than use your horn. Seriously.
I had a tour of the offices of CECI and Uniterra with Geetika and then went over to the Passage House to settle a bit. Then went to lunch at Buzz which is a really cool outdoor restaurant about a 10 minute walk away. Then had a power nap - totally exhausted. I woke up to a dark house, the load sharing of course - it lasted about 2 hours which is fine.
Tessa and Naomi came back later and we've been chatting since and geeking out on the now accessible internet. Check out the new videos I added to YouTube - click here
Rating of the Day: 8/10 because I am exhausted, hot and sweaty, wearing wrinkled clothes and unshowered dealing with strangely swollen ankles.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
En Route!
I had a tight transfer to the Qatar Airlines flight in Heathrow, even though it was in the same terminal. The security check had a super long line. It’s such a superficial inspection station anyways; really, we all just got off planes where we had an inspection. Sigh.
Anyhow. In about two hours I’m off to Kathmandu…Yay! OK, here’s some notes about the airports. Heathrow is big which means a lot of walking. The Doha Airport is small, noisy, boring and the washrooms are disgusting…blah. However, I know there’s a new swanky airport opening in 2012, which should be awesome. The lengthy bus ride from the plane to the terminal, jammed with scrambling travelers, was a bit much…but that probably will change in 2012. Also, make note, cutesy Western chit chat and manners don’t garner much of a response here. Leave them at the gate.
Friday, September 25, 2009
A snapshot of home
Some Facts
- Time slows down a week before departure.
- The time difference between Halifax, NS and Kathmandu is approximately -9 hours.
- The distance between Halifax, NS and Kathmandu is 11, 397 km.
- My flight from Halifax, NS to Kathmandu is 17.25 flying hours so with connections and all, it's a full day of travel. Doesn't seem that bad. I've taken flights from Halifax to Minneapolis that took all day...sigh.
- Nepalese is not an easy language to learn...and it sounds so cool.
- Nepal has very interesting customs.
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Two Week Countdown
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Getting ready to go again...fingers crossed.
So today I'll try to sort out my work plan. I've been given this mandate:
IDS Nepal is a non-profit, non-government, developmental organization established by professionals who have experiences in engineering, energy, environment, health, sanitation, skill development and social development field.
The main objective of IDS Nepal is to uplift the life of poor and underprivileged people by conceptualizing, formalizing and facilitating implementation of community managed development projects through their active participation in every step of the project cycle. IDS Nepal focuses on their capacity build up and their ownership of development process. Its’ major working area is on infrastructure engineering, alternative energy, environment, drinking water, health, sanitation and skill upgrading training in related field.
Uniterra and IDS Nepal have been working together for the past two years to promote Bio-Briquettes as alternative source of energy and livelihoods for the forest users. Through intervention of two Uniterra volunteers in the past, a BGRCNN (Bio Briquette Resource Centre Network) has been established that counts as members major Bio Briquette promoters of Nepal. Currently, there is a long term Uniterra volunteer who is working on marketing of Bio-Briquettes. At the same time, a Bio Briquette marketing company has been established in order to provide marketing support to the producers. IDS still plays a strong role in technical support and knowledge dissemination.
The purpose of this assignment is to revise the IDS, Bio Briquette Marketing Company and BGRCNN websites, propose appropriate change and interlink them so all of them can be used for the promotion of bio-briquettes nationally and internationally.
Since the skill for web design and update is in demand from most Uniterra partners, the volunteer will also be responsible for conducting training on web layout, design and update to the interested partner organizations including IDS.
And I've been told that October 17th-20th is the Festival of Tihar in Nepal so I will have to work around these public holidays.
BTW, here's a great Nepal travel guide online
Friday, July 24, 2009
Back on Track
I'm really looking forward to this and I hope I can give them what they want. For now, I'm too busy to worry about it; swamped at work organizing the Festival of Learning in August. Festivals, events, technology, design...I love my job.
Friday, July 17, 2009
A New Coordinator at L4C
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Roller Coaster Ride
On another note, I received some emails from the insurer which were kind of weird. They were asking about results from the medical test. I was told that a short term leave didn't require a medical examination and said so in an email to them. That seemed to be OK. The questions on the insurance application form were crazy though. They wanted to know all about my family, their ages and if they died, when and how. I'm not sure they're allowed to ask these questions. Be prepared for a weird form.
This is turning into a roller coaster ride and I'm cool with that. I'm pretty flexible but I can imagine how this might frustrate a lot of folks. If you have some disappointments, no worries. It makes the journey all the more intriguing, stay tuned...
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
SNAFU!
- Police Record Check - done
- Immunizations - done
- Passport - done
All systems go? Not quite. Due to political instability in Nepal I cannot leave for Kathmandu on Thursday as scheduled. Unfortunately I do not know when I will be able to go. Although this is dissapointing it is not totally unexpected. having read the political history of Nepal, political volatility is frequent. I've considered delaying the trip until the Fall becasue of an increasing workload at my work.
Hopefully I'll hear back from the Nepalese partners soon so I can make plans. At least everything else is done. No more needles...YAY!
To read up on the latest political news in Nepal, click here. I recommend keeping up on the latest news to be better prepared for the trip.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Vaccinations...sigh...
I was given a list of vaccinations for Nepal: typhoid, hepatitis A&B, Japanese encephalitis, malaria (in Terai).
Here's some advice:
- Start your shots a month ahead of time. You will need 21 days for the hepatitis A & B which is a series of three shots, 1, 7, 21 days. By the way, it's about $70 per shot. I won't have time for the 3rd shot before I leave but my Doctor recommends getting the third shot when I come back.
- I had all perscriptions filled at the pharmacy except for the Japanese encephalitis. The Typhoid shot had to be ordered, which only took a day. It's cheaper going to your doctor than a travel clinic. The doctor charges $10 for the injection.
- I'm not an expert but I would recommend thinking twice about getting the Japanese encephalitis, unless you will be in Nepal for more than a month. It's insanely expensive ($600) and the travel doctor thought it would be nuts..and it would have to be ordered in. I didn't get the shot. This is not something you can get through your regular doctor and pharmacy.
- Malaria is not 100% necessary but recommended if going to Terai. I hope to go to Terai so I got some pills. There are different pills you can buy. I splurged on the expensive Maleron that you take everyday. Super expensive ($5/pill) but less chance of going squirrely with hallucinations. Also found out that the Leave for Change program doesn't cover Maleron. Lesson learned, read the fine print.
- Check out this useful website for vaccination details: http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/destinationList.aspx#N
If anyone asks...and for some reason I was asked...about Typhoid Mary, tell them she was a cook in the early 1900's who infected a lot of people with Typhoid. She was a carrier and was in denial so did nothing to prevent spreading the disease: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Typhoid_Mary
Monday, April 27, 2009
Training Day 2 - Guelph, ON, Canada
What an excited group. Everyone is jazzed to get going. Sure, there is a sense of fear of the unknown but that's to be expected. I can't imagine anyone walking into this program is 100% confident in themselves. Well, I hope not.
The mood now seems to be hunger...we want more, need more info, want to do more... our tasebuds have been wetted. It reminds me of the story about a tiger who was raised by goats.
Happening upon an orphaned tiger cub, a herd of goats adopted the cub into their herd and the cub grew up thinking he too was a goat. The cub ate like a goat, bleated like a goat and travelled with the goats. one day an old tiger came upon the herd and killed a goat; the other goats ran away but the young tiger did not sense danger and stayed. The old tiger was shocked to encounter the strange young tiger that behaved like a goat.
The old tiger approached the young tiger and dragged him to a creek to see his refection, but the young tiger was unimpressed with his own reflection. Frustrated, the old tiger dragged the young tiger back to where he had just killed the goat and forced a piece of meat into the young tigers' mouth - horrified, the young tiger spit it out. But, the old tiger made the young tiger eat the meat again and made him swallow. This time, the young tiger allowed himself to taste the meat and for the first time, gave out a powerful roar!
It is called the 'Roar of Awakening' in the discovery that we are more than we think we are. I think we're about to taste a bit of meat...
Here are some video snippits from the day to chew on:
- What is expected of me? Lisbeth Sider (Vietnam, 2008)
- Dialogue on Capacity Building Mike Levy (Botswana, 2008)
- How to make a difference Lisbeth Sider (Vietnam, 2008)
- Good Intentions Philippe Leduc and the 2009 Volunteer group in Guelph, ON
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Training Day 1 - Guelph, ON, Canada
The first part of the day was intercultural training, learning how to appreciate differences, how to recognize the impact of deep-seated values and thinking and behaviour, and how to bridge the culture gap. The second part was a chance to sit down with someone, in my case, from Nepal for a couple of hours to learn about what to expect, what to do, say, where to go, what not to do, and a few basic language tips. It was great. Ajoy Bista was knowledeable (of course), friendly, organized and very helpful. The interesting thing was, after talking with Ajoy, this whole exeprience became real for me. Click here for a video of the discussion with Ajoy.
I do feel more prepared now which is great. The training has opened my eyes to a number of things:
- the cultural values that affect my thinking
- appreciating the behaviour and thought patterns of others with values different to my own, and learning to accept and learn from the differences
- this trip is not just about helping others, it's also about learning more about myself. This is an opportunity to grow as a person.
Check out this video of Kelly Eastlake discussing competencies on cultural effectiveness.
At this point, I'm still green. I've had experiences in the Middle East and Mexico which are valuable but I've not taken the time to reflect on those experiences while they were fresh in my mind. I'm not making that mistake again.
Tomorrow: intro to international development and capacity building, gender and development, scenarios, public engagement plan.